Fashion Wire Daily March 2, 2005 - PARIS - Edie Sedgwick and Howard Hughes finally got a chance to meet in the Christian Dior women’s ready-to-wear collection, the latest to show that designer John Galliano’s focus is on the commercial grounds rather that airy flights of fancy.
Like in Dior’s couture show last month, Galliano opened with a score of top models doing their imitation of the Warhol “superstar,” black and white horizontal striped mohair pullovers and tops, fantastic flat-soled boots and fishnet stockings, except this time, unlike couture, many were ripped, the result one imagines of a perverse tryst with an energetic lover. From the semi-deconstructed shearlings to the Napoleonic biker jackets, we saw plenty of great looks.
These were barnstormer babes, the sort any young lothario would dream a first date would wear. Backed up by a two dueling pianists in a Bobby Darrin nightclub setting, the show rocked and drew smiles on the faces of the cool front row of Diana Ross, Julianne Moore, Dita von Teese and the lovely Nathalia Verbeke.
Galliano changed gear in the second section, where he sent out a slew of fur. Milan and Paris, both on and off the runway, have been crammed with pelts and skins, even if most of what we’ve seen has been pretty formulaic, except for accessories. To his credit, Galliano gave us something new — crocodile and mink regimental great coats, bright red crocodile Dior jackets that looked great and fresh.
His final third was pretty hit and miss. If the motor biking diva in an embroidered silver satin dressed with astrakhan bomber was a stunner, then the rouched up chiffon dresses with patch pockets were not at all flattering. Moreover, while the collection had panache, wearability, fresh ideas and punch, it did lack Galliano’s signature femininity, his ability to twist historical costumes in to sexy modern clothes.
“I was thinking of Edie Sedgwick, obviously, when I designed this collection. Her and Howard Hughes. The clothes were for his sort of girls,” said Galliano backstage, attired in a powder blue suit and white shoes and a long pearl earring dropping from his left ear, ideal for a day at the racetrack or long poolside lunch.
